MILAN — September 20th-26th Milan Fashion Week is poised to be a packed affair, with 67 mostly physical shows, highly anticipated debuts and a host of returning designer brands.
Among the creatives presenting their first collections for historic houses is Marco de Vincenzo, Etro’s newly appointed creative director, who will make his debut at the helm of the famous Italian brand. He chose a location on the outskirts of town for the September 23 event, which takes place hours after Filippo Grazioli’s revised vision for Missoni. This will be Grazioli’s first runway since he joined the brand as creative director in March. He has already been responsible for the resort’s and men’s spring collections, which featured in presentations earlier in the summer.
The following day, September 24th, sees a couple more highly-anticipated debuts: Salvatore Ferragamo, who showed how he was preparing a creative changing of the guard in a presentation last season, is back with a coed show hosted by a newly installed creative director, Maximilian Davis, while Bally, which traditionally hosted presentations, makes its runway debut with the first collection designed by Rhuigi Villaseñor, the Manila-born designer behind the Rhude brand.
Moncler will close this day, which celebrates its 70th anniversary, with a runway event at 21:00 CET.
According to the tentative calendar released on Friday by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the week officially begins on September 20 with the Milano Moda Graduate Event, the fashion organization’s award for graduate collections.
Though there are still a few show slots to be filled later in the evening, fashion people can expect the real action to begin on September 21st when the We Are Made in Italy collective of designers and fashion professionals of color exhibit digitally, followed by Antonio Marras, who according to some Seasons full of presentations, showroom appointments and a catwalk event held in Russia last February returns to the official calendar with a physical catwalk show.
Diesel and Fendi follow, among others. Although the latter brand is heading to New York Fashion Week to celebrate the 25th anniversary of its hit Baguette handbag, which WWD reports could include a collaboration with Marc Jacobs, its spring 2023 collection is coming to Milan as usual. Diesel, on the other hand, opens its show to the public, as does Anteprima, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary.
Vivetta and Stella Jean also return to the calendar on September 23 after a few years’ absence.
As reported, Dolce & Gabbana-backed Matty Bovan is moving from London to Milan with a physical show on September 25th, while this season’s Valentino- and Camera della Moda-backed designers Galib Gassanoff and Act N.1’s Luca Lin will shown on September 22nd.
On the penultimate evening, the Camera della Moda will host the Sustainable Fashion Awards event at La Scala in Milan, where 12 prizes will be awarded. As reported, the soiree will be moderated by actress Rossy de Palma.
The final day will feature digital-only presentations, including Mmusomaxwell, one of the few new names on the schedule, helmed by design duo Mmuso Potsane and Maxwell Boko and based in Johannesburg.
The presentation schedule has yet to be released, and a final version of the calendar will be released on September 7, the Camera della Moda said.